Navneet Gems & Minerals launches Unheated Portrait-Cut Ruby collection.

Portrait Cut – Unique Geometries

Alternative cuts are becoming increasingly popular in jewellery markets across the world, including for engagement rings, and provide distinctive and eye-catching options. Designers continuously explore unconventional and unique ways to cut gems to create one-of-a-kind pieces in response to soaring market demand for individualistic jewellery and more economical choices. This has prompted gemstone manufacturers like Bangkok based Navneet Gems and Minerals to experiment with portrait-cut rubies in trendy geometric shapes. “Portrait cuts mostly exist in diamonds. We are excited to introduce portrait-cut rubies in the market at the Jewellery & Gem World Hong Kong show in September 2023 as these can present a huge potential for designers, says Navneet Agarwal, Marketing Manager of Navneet Gems & Minerals Limited Co,.

He adds, “just as red diamonds are exceptionally rare, high-quality rubies with intense red colour are also relatively scarce. Opting for an unheated ruby portrait-cut can be an excellent choice for those who appreciate something rare and distinctive.”

Agarwal explains that social media channels like Instagram have fueled the industry by democratizing access to diverse aesthetics, information and giving consumers a broader range of options. “One has to adapt to changing consumer preferences by offering fresh options that go beyond traditional cuts. Portrait cuts are a creative and artistic way of shaping gemstones, including rubies, to create unique and intricate designs,” says Agarwal.

Rough rubies are hand-selected and purchased directly from the responsibly sourced mining company Fura Gems and later cut and polished in Thailand. Agarwal explains the technical challenges in mastering this cut. “Portrait-cuts require an exceptionally high level of precision. Gem cutters must meticulously plan and execute each cut, while minimizing wastage of the valuable material. Unheated rubies can have inclusions and imperfections within them. These inclusions can make the cutting process highly challenging. Gem cutters must carefully work around them to avoid damaging the stone or compromising its structural integrity. The process of preforming, cutting and polishing a portrait cut involves removing significant portions of the gem’s material, which can increase the risk of fractures or breakage, especially if there are internal stress points within the stone. It has taken us years to master this cutting technique.”

Gemmologist Navneet Agarwal of Navneet Gems & Minerals.

Old-School Miniatures to Modern Minimalism

Portrait cuts have a fascinating history with roots in ancient Indian jewellery-making and have been used for centuries to enhance the beauty of natural gemstones. Historically, portrait-cut diamonds were used to visually enhance and protect miniature paintings. Much like a long, slender pane of transparent glass, the “portrait-cut” also called a lasque is a thin, flat cut with a large table and slight facets on the side. For ruby portrait-cuts, the red colour is seen through the flat table. “There’s an old-world feel which takes us back to the native cutting style from the Maharajas era, when they used to use a lot of portrait cuts.” Unlike traditional faceted gemstones that feature numerous facets across their surface to enhance brilliance and sparkle, contemporary portrait cuts reduce the number of facets, particularly along the gem’s outer edges. This creates a distinct visual effect that resembles a clear sheet of glass.

The illusion of a larger gemstone created by portrait cuts makes them suitable for various jewellery pieces and can be used as centre stones or accents in jewellery design. “Portrait cuts give the impression of a bigger gemstone and promise a great value for money in terms of visual impact.”

According to Agarwal, portrait-cuts in rubies and across other gem categories are still relatively niche due to the specialised skills required to create these intricate cuts. Some innovative jewellers like Kamyen Jewellery push the boundaries of traditional gem cutting and design by working with portrait-cut rubies to create a pair of ruby earrings. The design brings together vivid rubies with red chrome metal and diamonds to enhance its red palette. While portrait-cut rubies still remain under the radar, Agarwal believes that their uniqueness, artistry and storytelling potential have an allure that will resonate with those who appreciate their beauty and craftsmanship.

Agarwal looks forward to sharing his collection of portrait cut rubies at Booth Number 8B21- Asia World Export (AWE) Navneet Gems & Minerals. He will be at the show from 18-22 September 2023.

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Navneet Gems & Minerals

Navneet Gems and Mineral is a gemstone manufacturer and specialist of loose precious and semi-precious gemstones. Founded by the visionary Suresh Agarwal in 1993, Navneet Gems & Minerals is spear-headed today by his son, Navneet Agarwal, a certified gemologist with the GIA, Carlsbad, USA. The company’s headquarters are located in the heart of Bangkok’s gemstone district, Silom with manufacturing facilities in both cutting hubs in Bangkok and Jaipur, India.